Jicky Perfume Guerlain
Is it a coincidence that one of the first perfumes to have extracted from the matrix earnings apothecary, the only one who has been continuously produced since its launch in 1889, had hesitated so long on its way as sex is yet determined? A little, somewhat, like the Eiffel Tower was born the same year, phallic in its slenderness, feminine in its base that evokes the garter belt (a persistent urban myth is that it is inspired by Gustave Eiffel for the design of the turn). It remains unclear to date whether the Jicky by Guerlain was first designed for men or women: the time hesitated to target a market, whereas previously, all were equally shared scents. Even its name is part of the original hermaphroditism: it would be at once the name of Jacques, nephew and assistant of its creator Aime Guerlain, and that of a little English that he had proposed to her during his studies in Great Britain, and that his family would have refused. Aimé Guerlain, in memory of her, it says, would never have married . . . . Fragrances in his Legend, Michael Edwards looks at length about the hesitation surrounding the birth of Jicky. According to Philippe Guerlain, he quotes, Jicky perfume was so revolutionary that it seemed more masculine to Gabriel [Guerlain, in charge of marketing], the brother of Beloved. jicky perfume guerlain was a bit harder than the soft floral notes of the time. (. . . ) Certainly, too, the blue tint, the strict form straight lines and severe the original bottle was designed to suggest that a man. However, men were reluctant, it seems, to accept this perfume. When they realized that Jicky was too modern for men, they decided to pass it in women, said Philippe Guerlain. It is interesting that the question of attribution of sexual jicky perfume guerlain revolves around the modernity of this scent abstract if the abstract is to say the lack of representation of an odor does not exist in the nature, was not entirely new, the predecessor of Jicky, Houbigant Fougère Royale (1881), was still a natural name, although it was quite fantastic - the fern does not smell . While the name does not refer to Jicky reference fragrant. Who, then, men or women, would be willing to adopt this modern? It was not until 1912 that women's magazines began to sing his praises, says Colette Fellous, author of a book on jicky perfume guerlain (Denoël Editions, 1989), also cited by the feel of legend. So these are women, meanwhile educated by other major abstract highly saturated synthetic materials such as oregano, Coty (1905), After the Wave (1906) or L'Heure Bleue by jicky perfume guerlain (1912), are ready to engage in new olfactory territories - like, next mode, they start their revolution. Poiret they have already brought down the corsets, Chanel point and revolution on the horizon, while men are desperately cramped in costumes inherited from the 19th century . . . . Men and women will continue however to share Jicky: any perfume can be worn by both Sean Connery and Brigitte Bardot, Roger Moore and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, is evidence of outright confusion in sexual identity, or a rare harmony - look there for the last hypothesis: Jicky is the sex of angels who, as everyone knows, do not. As Seraphitus / Seraphita Balzac evoked Luca Turin in his first guide about it, the sex of jicky perfume guerlain continues to this day to oscillate. Since its inception, the combination of lavender and coumarin, aromatic notes of rosemary, green and milky round geranium agreements are often used in men's fragrance. But the rich heart of jasmine and rose, gluttony vanillin, benzoin with hints of cinnamon and a little smoky opoponax give it a rounded, a scale that do escape any classification . . . . Obviously, jicky perfume guerlain was unable to cross over a century without undergoing some changes, even if only because the animal material used at the time (civet, musk and certainly as a fixative, even if n is not listed in the notes) are no longer available. I have a bottle that probably dates from before the war (it is not indicated on the label perfume, which is the case in the compositions of post-war, when it launches perfumes and colognes in the same range). The smell has miraculously survived the years: so I could compare it to a modern fragrance that is as accurate as possible, fortunately, the original composition. The former, as almost always has a bound and a depth that alone can confer the use of natural musk, which puts all the notes in relief. The quality of lavender seems to be a little different. The real civet, which is very diluted, but no longer fecal floral, provides strong hints that the contemporary market animals would no longer consider acceptable. A forum MakeupAlley commentator once said, very funny, as it was as if a cat had crapped in a clump of lavender - and spoke of the fragrance present. That is to say how Jicky, considered too modern when it was launched, is inappropriate today precisely because it is related to a dying tradition of classical perfumery: the inclusion of sales that transform the scores feel good in alchemical composition, to allow the stench, distilled in small doses, to enhance the sweetness of flowers and herbs. . . .
